Taking a break with a cold drink at a handy picnic table, Guy Moore commences to tell how his grandfather Laurence Moore was a truck farmer and how Larry Moore -- Laurence's son and Guy's dad -- was determined never to do that again. He ran dairy and sod operations instead.

But it was when three of his four offspring decided to go into farming that they figured out how to bring the trucks, and cars, out to them, as many as 500 on a weekend.

For 35 years, ever since a young Lynn Moore grew the first acre of strawberries, customers have been driving from around the state, and even adjacent ones, to Route 94 in Woodbine, heading to Larriland Farms, where Lynn is now president.

It's the fruit they love, which is why peach and apple trees were planted shortly after those first strawberries (though the trees didn't yield until 1980 or so). Just as on most dinner plates, veggies are not the lead items.

"People aren't driving out for broccoli, although they will buy it when they're here," says Guy, Lynn's brother, a vice-president of the family- owned and run operation and, incidentally, president of the Maryland Vegetable Growers Association.

No, they come for strawberries that never need sugar, blueberries the color of a clear, cloudless sky, bunched like tiny grapes, raspberries that crush into liquid rubies (unless they are of the purple, black or even yellow varieties available), a dozen kinds of peaches and 19 of apples. And when they get here they may find, like almost-4-year-old Leo Santoboni of Washington, D.C., that pulling beets can be kind of fun, too.

He, mom Julie and sister Isabella, 6, knew nothing about that art but learned from a handy sign to look at ground level to judge a beet's size. If it's not bursting right out of the earth, it's too small to pick.

"Sometimes taking a bus to the Smithsonian just doesn't do it," says Julie Santoboni about summer activities with her little ones. Besides, she grew up next to a farm and enjoys being back in that environment now and then.

Sure enough, typical visiting pickers are moms up to age 45 bringing kids aged 6-15, Guy Moore says, and if some berries go directly into mouth instead of into container it's OK with the Moores. In fact, they plan on it.

"That's one of the reasons they come here," Guy acknowledges.

Retired Baltimore City police officer Donner Powell comes regularly from Towson with wife Leslie and 3-year-old Imani, reliving his own youthful visits (though he doubtless didn't look like a sparkly fairy princess, as Imani does this day; more like she did on their earlier stop for strawberries, which turned the little girl berry-red).

Snacking is also OK from a health standpoint. The farm makes use of integrated pest-management practices such as crop monitoring, pest- and disease-resistant crop varieties, biological controls, sanitation and agricultural practices such as crop rotation, with minimal chemical spraying.

The areas where they do use chemicals are closed to customers. With 175 of Larriland's 280 acres in crops, there are still plenty of fields whereon to pick your own.

Pickings may be seasonal, as crops and varieties ripen week by week, but they're not slim. Still available (according to the farm's projected schedule) are the red raspberries, blueberries and thornless blackberries, along with peaches and cantaloupe and vegetables such as tomatoes, sweet corn and squash. Folks lacking sunny yards or green thumbs can cut a bouquet of colorful flowers, too.

Three-quarters or more of the farm's business is its pick-your-own operation, Lynn reports; the rest is its Red Barn farm market, where already-picked produce can be purchased along with jams and jellies, canning and freezing supplies, fruit treats and fudge.

That pre-picked produce sounded good to John Pullen, or so he told Allison Burns. The Ellicott City couple was collecting blueberries, which Burns said she'd eat right from the bag, though Pullen, the chef of the pair, had something of a more culinary nature in mind.

"I do like a good cobbler," he said. The plan was to head over for raspberries and sour cherries next.

Over in the cherry grove, the first-choice treat of deer and protected from them by patrolling dogs, Charlotte Kirk of Ashton was having trouble setting limits on her harvest.

Even though she freezes her pickings for later pie-making, "It's hard not to overdo it," she said, speaking through the laden branches. "I have to keep reminding myself that every one of these has to be pitted."

Although strawberry season is gone, and pumpkins are not yet ripe on the vine, many of Maryland's PYO farms still have a lot to offer during the summer, not to mention fresh air and sunshine. Larriland and most others offer daily taped messages describing what's available. Always call before driving out to avoid disappointment.

Baltimore County

Huber's Family Produce Farm, Kingsville. 410-679-1941

Mingodale Farm Produce, Parkton. 410-357-0403

Carroll County

Baugher's Farm Orchard Market, Westminster. 410-857-0111.

Cecil County

Milburn's Orchard, Elkton. 410-398-1349.

Spring Valley Farm, Conowingo. 410-378-3280.

Charles County

Homestead Farm, Faulkner. 301-934-9004.

Frederick County

Catoctin Mountain Orchard, Thurmont. 301-271-2737.

Glade-Link Farms, New Midway. 301-898-7131.

Pryor's Orchard, Thurmont. 301-271-2693.

Harford County

Lohr's Orchard, Churchville. 410-836-2783.

Shaw Orchards, Stewartstown, Pa. at Md. state line. 410-692-2429.

Howard County

Larriland Farm, Woodbine. 410-442-2605.

KeLockbriar Farms, Chestertown. 410-778-9112.

Montgomery County

Butler's Orchard, Germantown. 301-972-3299.

Homestead Farm, Poolesville. 301-977-3761.

Rock Hill Orchard, Mount Airy. 301-831-7427.

Prince George's County

C&E Farms, Glenn Dale. 301-352-2958.

Hall's Green Farm, Upper Marlboro. 301-249-7669.

Johnson's Berry Farm, Upper Marlboro. 301-627-8316.

Queen Anne's County

Godfrey's Fruits and Vegetables, Sudlersville. 410-438-3509.

Kent Fort Farm, Stevensville. 410-643-1650.

St. Mary's County

Berrywood Farm, Hollywood. 301-373-8545.

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